In the same month that Donald Trump is elected the 47th President of the United States, the biggest city in Northern Thailand is unperturbed. Despite the global shock waves reverberating at what the result might herald, Chiang Mai’s attention is calmly focussed on loftier matters and ancient traditions. I’m reminded of a former First Lady’s apt wisdom. ‘When they go low, we go high.’ For here in Buddhist Chiang Mai, going high is what it’s all about. We’ve heard that come full moon in the 12th month of the Thai lunar calendar, thousands of paper lanterns are released in spectacular style into the night sky. We’ve come here specifically to witness this spiritual event because it takes place at the same time as a personal milestone ‘0’ birthday that needs to be marked in memorable fashion, and in a warmer climate than the UK. For as the lanterns float skywards, powered by fire, they symbolise the release of misfortunes and hopes for the future. Amen to that, eh?
As we arrive preparations for the approaching Yi Peng festival are well underway in the Old Town with strings of decorative lanterns in rainbow colours visible along the streets, temples and outside every shop and restaurant. The lantern festival is a religious and cultural event unique to Chiang Mai, cleverly marketed to attract visitors. Loy Krathong, the other celebration taking place in the same week at riversides and waterways across Thailand is a much older tradition honouring the goddess of water and Buddha.
A Krathong is a handmade flower arrangement, designed to float on water. The colourful decoration features a slice of trunk and the leaves from a banana tree, lotus flowers, marigolds and orchids, plus a candle and incense sticks. The whole thing is remarkably robust and as the event day draws close hundreds of these home crafted items appear for sale on street corners and market stalls, priced at less than £1. A tiny price considering the obvious care taken and the impact they create when the candles are lit and the little rafts are afloat. In several locations during the day we see women being photographed in traditional outfits, proudly holding their more elaborately fashioned krathongs in readiness for a parade through town ahead of the riverside ceremony. More of this later. First there are lanterns to launch.
In recent years the lantern festival has attracted criticism for the negative environmental impact created by a mass of non-biodegradable materials endangering wildlife when they land in fields and waterways. It seems such issues are largely overlooked by visitors and locals caught up in the romance of the moment, but it is strictly forbidden to release lanterns within the city as they pose an understandable hazard to aircraft. For this reason, designated outdoor locations on the outskirts of Chiang Mai host the festival on two consecutive nights. The exact arrangements seem a little vague, but it turns out participants need to purchase tickets from an authorized travel agent and all will be revealed.
Up, Up and Away
We’ve left it late to secure our places but as we climb aboard one of a convoy of coaches heading to Doi Saket, a town 25km from Chiang Mai, we conclude that the £60 cost per ticket is probably going to be worth it for the transport there and back alone. Lanterns are provided at the destination and apparently a meal too. This was seriously undersold. We expected a few snacks in a box but as we arrive the organisers are putting the final touches to a self-service hot buffet with an array of food and drink for the thousands of hungry visitors pouring in. Initially it seems like chaos but miraculously everyone is being amply fed and watered. There is no rush or panic, despite the enormous number of expectant people. When an announcer tells the throng that a mass lift off is planned for 7.30pm it’s our cue to collect our lanterns and find a suitable spot on the lakeside bank for a practice launch. Our ticket entitles us to eight lanterns in total so by the size of these things there is clearly a technique to master that will require two pairs of hands and several practice runs.
Hundreds of people of all ages are trying to find a firm footing on the steep bank, with enough space to safely unfurl their rice paper lanterns and set light to the square of wax inside. Eventually we find a suitable spot and like some sort of magic trick an elderly Thai couple appear beside us to show us the ropes. Success requires patience as the wax takes a while to fully ignite and then you have to allow the flame to generate enough hot air to lift the lantern out of your outstretched arms. Relax your hold too soon, the lantern will sink, and you risk saying goodbye to your eyebrows. It takes a few goes to feel the satisfying pull that indicates you can safely let go and follow your lantern’s twinkling journey to join the rest against the night sky. In the excitement and beauty of the spectacle I forgot all about making a wish. Frankly, it was enough for me that I didn’t set myself or anyone else alight.
The countryside in Northern Thailand must be littered with metal rods and burnt blocks of wax in the aftermath of all those lanterns falling to earth so the environmentalists certainly have a point. Perhaps next year the materials used could allay those concerns. I should have made that my wish. This extraordinary public event also involved fireworks, but the obvious health and safety concerns that would have prevented this kind of event back home don’t materialise here. People just behave well!
In addition to the lanterns, we were gifted two krathongs so the following evening we head towards the River Ping, first to watch numerous costumed community groups and marching bands parade by before joining the crowds at the riverside. It is time for the ritual letting go of all misfortune and the welcoming in of a year of positivity and good fortune by lighting and setting these little decorations free on the water.
Again, there is help on hand to assist a never-ending stream of people crammed onto a bamboo pontoon, krathongs in hand. Two Thai gents, standing waist deep in the river for the entire night are tasked with lighting the candles and incense sticks and making sure the craft sail down the river as the occasion demands. It’s a beautiful couple of days in the Thai calendar and I’m thrilled to have participated.
Coming soon, Chiang Mai’s Temples, Culture and Food.
